button up

I know Archer sew-along has long been over, but I am proud to say that I made the shirt! It all started when I saw this equipment silk blouse. I know it is a simple button up shirt, but everything seemed so perfect – the fit, length, and fabric. However, I could not bring myself to pay $300 for a shirt even though it is silk and I’m sure I’ll get a lot of wear out of it. So I was in search for a perfect button up shirt pattern, something that is loosely fitted (not like an office lady blouse) without pleats, long sleeves and has pockets. Somehow I stumbled upon the Grainline studio’s Archer button up shirt pattern and it fit the bill!

Although I was between size 0 and 2, I decided to just cut size 2 because I didn’t mind the shirt fit a bit loose on me. I did not make any modification at all. I was surprised how perfect it fit on me. The sleeve length was perfect. I often find sleeves too short when I buy retail clothes in Japan even for size large, so I was glad. The shirt length is good and covers my lower half which means I can wear it with jeggings as well. I might extend it by, maybe, two inches in length next time so I don’t have to keep tucking in the shirt when I wear it with a skirt.                                                                      {Kiko’s t-shirt made by me, blogged here}

The fabric is from the Ho Chi Min city trip earlier this year. I was going to do a separate blog post about my day at the fabric market in Ho Chi Min, but I never got to. I only ended up picking this fabric because I was overwhelmed by the massiveness of the fabric market and no one seemed to have spoken English or Japanese. It was so much bigger than the Japanese fabric row in Nippori. I managed to buy two meters of this chiffon (most likely poly) and I’m sure I got ripped off. I don’t remember exactly, but I paid somewhere between 4 USD to 6 USD.

I thoroughly enjoyed following Jen’s sew-along. I really love her way of writing. It is clear and easy to follow. I especially loved this video post on how to attach the collar and collar stand on the shirt. I’ve made shirts before, but I did not know the easy way to finish attaching the collar stand in the inside of the garment. I always had to fight with the excess seam allowances. I am so glad I learned this method.

Since the fabric is a light-weight chiffon, I had a hard time cutting the fabric. It slipped a lot and did not want to stay in place. Also sewing hems and pockets were challenging. In the sew-along, Jen just presses the 1/4 inches pocket seam allowances and attach to the shirt front, but I basted the pocket seam allowances, pinned them in place and sewed. I also basted the hem because it did not hold the iron press very well.

Overall, I am very pleased with my new closet addition. It makes me sad that Andy does not like it as much. He said “it is old woman-ish”. Maybe the floral print fabric? I don’t know. But I shan’t care because his favorite outfit of mine is sweat pants and white tank… Weird.

Next up is to make the same shirt in silk crape de chine! I bought this fabric and it was the most I spent on fabric for my own clothes. Thankfully I had some points saved up, so I only needed to pay extra 1000 yen (10 USD) out of my own pocket. The shop, called hideki is highly recommended because they ship quick and let you order fabric samples up to 10. I had something else in mind when I ordered the samples, but I was sold on this beautiful crape de chine when I saw the sample.

Details | pattern: Grainline Archer Button Up | fabric: polyester chiffon from Viet Nam | Size: 2 | Modification: None |Interface: Used organza, instead of iron-on interface
Outfit details | Shirt made by me, denim from here (I roughed up the knees), Booties from my elementary school age(!) and Madewell leather jacket.

今年初めに行ったホーチミンの繊維街で買ったお花柄のシフォンで、シャツを作りました。
きっかけはEquipmentというブランドのシルクシャツを見たことから。ドレープ感、素材、胸ポケットと、すべて完璧なこのシャツ、自分で作りたい！と思い、型紙を探しました。

たどりついた型紙はGrainline StudioというインディペンデントパタンナーさんのArcher Button Upというもの。
PDFですぐダウンロードでき、”Sew-Along”という形で、ブログ読者さんに作り方を詳しく説明してくれるので、分かりやすかったです。

以前もボタンダウンのシャツは何度か作ったことがあったのですが、今回はシフォンの滑りやすい素材ということもあり、仕付け糸で仮に留めてポケットや裾を縫ったり、工夫しました。

主人は「なんかおばちゃんシャツみたい・・・」と反応悪。でも気にしないで着ます！

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