As I mentioned in my last coat post, I’m working on BurdaStyle 08/2012#101B pattern this winter. Making a coat involves a lot of different processes, so I try to tackle each step on different day. A few days ago, I worked on cutting out the patterns in my size. I chose the smallest size, size 36.
Pattern adjustments: I only shortened the coat length and did not make any other pattern adjustments. The instructions call for 4cm coat hem, but I did not add them. I am 165cm tall (5’5) and without adding the hem allowances, it seems to fall right above my knees.
Note on the patterns: One thing to note on Burda patterns is that they don’t have seam allowances included. It seems like some BurdaStyle patterns produced in NY have allowances included, but the ones from Germany don’t. I might be wrong with this assumption though. Not having seam allowances included in the patterns can be good if you are sewing a fitted dress, like a bombshell dress because it is easier to adjust the fit, but it can also be annoying since you have to add it on your own! Any suggestions on how to do that in the easiest and the quickest way? I used the tracing wheel shown in the picture above, set the width between two wheels to 1.5cm and traced the patterns. I did it without the Dressmaker’s tracing paper or anything, so it was hard to see. So I decided to take out this fabric stamp pad, called Fabrico, dipped the wheel in and marked the seam allowances. It is not a good idea. I ended up having the black ink all over the floor and the patterns.
Here are more inspirational images for winter coats. All images pinned to this board on Pinterest.
One, Two, Three, Four.
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Valerie says
Hi Chie!
Tha’s funny you mention this problem of seam allowances because I always used patterns without. I think this is the “normal” thing in Europe (like Burda, Ottobre,…). I usually don’t add tracing for the seam allowances. I just cut the fabric with 2 cm larger than the tracing of the pattern without measuring exactly. When I stitch the pieces together, I recut if it is too large and that’s it.
A few weeks ago, I bought a McCall pattern for my girl and I was so embarrassed with the seam allowances included in the pattern that I gave up! I was stressful for me not to have the tracing of the stitch line and I did not know how to trace…
Valérie (from France)
Chie says
Hi Valerie! Thank you for your comment. It is so interesting to read a view of someone who is used to NOT having the seam allowances included. Japanese patterns don’t usually include seam allowances either, but in the past I’ve used more American patterns with SA included than Japanese patterns, so I got used to using the patterns with SA included.
I like your method; sounds so much easier than adding the seam allowances to the pattern. My only concern is that I forget that the SA is not included, and cutting out the patterns as is.
Thanks for your advice!!